1973 Datsun 240z in Blood Orange color code 918
- All original paint (with lots of dings, dents, scratches)
- California car (receipt / bill of sale when it was sold in 1974 with 21K miles in Long Beach which also corresponds to the two Long Beach Datsun license plate frames included)
- 16K Miles on the odometer (According to a few receipts the odometer has rolled over!)
- Original numbers matching engine, and 4-speed transmission
- Original jack, tools, spare, and manual, original louvers (not in photos) come with the car.
- Dealer optioned AC (unplugged…)
- The chassis is rust free underneath, and in all the important places. However it does have some rust on the flat panel when you open the hatch, as well as on the hatch door near the hinge, and on the passenger side front fender. Not bad at all. Iphone placed next to the photos for size comparison. The worst rust area is the actual hatch door. I do have a replacement hatch from another car with or without window but they are different colors (black without window, and white with) and of course won’t be original paint. Here is a link for a replacement panels just in case.
- The headliner, and driver side sun visor is off but is included with the car.
Fender Repair Panel : http://www.thezstore.com/
Flat Hatch area Repair Panel : http://www.thezstore.com/
The story : The car was sitting inside of a garage for 25 years when a retired hobbyist had purchased it, and trailered it to his little shop in Gardena, California. He then spent 5 years slowly working on it to get it into running condition.
These are the things he did in the time :
- Brakes (Turned Rotors & Drums)
- Clutch (Resurfaced Flywheel)
- Bridgestone Tires
- Hoses, belts
- Headers
- Rebuilt SU Carburetors
- urethane Bushings
- Tokico Struts
- Riyadh Springs
- New Battery
- Fuel Pump
- Water Pump
- Rear main seal
- Freeze plugs including one behind flywheel and head
Video :
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Hey there,
just saw your add for this 1973 Datsun and i got a few questions.
You say the Carbs got rebuilt, but does that mean they got changed to the 70-72 earlier version to get back some of the performance that got lost with the newer model or simply rebuilt?
Further is the rust really only concentrated on the mentioned parts?
Meaning changing the front lower fender really exterminates rust in that area? This is crucial as I’ll be exporting a Z to Germany and over here there’s no chance getting a “historic plate” with corroded main body and stability parts of the car.
Same goes for the flat hatch panel, if replaced by the linked spare part part do i get rid of all corrosion or is there more hidden below. I guess that panel get’s cut out and simply welded in right?
For the hatch door, im not quite sure. From you’re perspective is it possible to get the original hatch rust free at the hinge and simply repaint? What would that probably cost? More than one of you’re exchange hatch doors?
The other thing that bugs me is what appears to be the mounting mechanism for the hatch window grill thing (The black cover that is on a lot of Zs hatch windows, I have no idea what it’s called), it doesn’t look too cool and it’s another possible future corrosion spot
Nevertheless, just for comparison what would a windowed hatch door set me back?
All in all is there anything else to your knowledge that’s missing on the car, as the spare parts market with only around 300 cars of this model sold in Germany is really bad. I basically need to get the all major parts before shipping.
Thanks in advance for your reply,
Whish you a good one.
Regards,
Michael A.